Tuesday, August 25, 2009

My corset making history

May I bore you with some old pictures?
These are all the corsets I made in the past. Yes all, although I'm ashamed of most of them.
The first one is from 2005 and the last from 2008 (2008! I should really finish my stays and get on to the next)

I can't believe how much I improved! But at the same time, it looks like there's no improvement at all!
Sooo much left to learn :)

Pattern made from an online pattern generator. Rigilene and two layers of polyester taffeta

First self-drafted overbust. Two layers of the most hideous polyester lining fabric (yes, lining)
This was the first time I used steel boning. The pattern wasn't even THAT bad for a first time.

My first self-drafted underbust. And the first time I used a busk. Two layers with steel boning (sandwich method)

Self-drafted underbust of polyester satin. Two layers with the steel boning in the seam allowance of the lining (bad idea -_-)

Self-drafted overbust (men, I must really like pattern drafting! :S)
Not the best pic, but it gives a really nice silhouette, without lacing very tight. I like the bust part.
It contains spiral boning and cups the breasts nicely. Two layers (sandwich method) with steel and spiral.

Again, self-drafted and the first time I used coutil! Two layers with steel and spiral boning. Used internal boning channels (also a first time!), that's what also caused the huge wrinkling. But I kept it that way, because it gives a funny effect up front.

Well, I'm a perfectionist, so I thought to myself: why shouldn't I use a commercial pattern for a change? I couldn't be satisfied with my own drafts, so that looked like a good idea.
I used the Laughing Moon pattern. Even after two (I usually do one) mock-ups, this is the result. I'm not really satisfied, it looks cheap! And it's my only corset that has the outside layer made of silk! I have to lace like crazy to get a nice shape and then it's still not really what I like.

Oh well, it's more comfortable than my black overbust. Let's research the reason for that a little more for my next overbust :)


So, that's my history of corset making! I probably make a cincher after this to wear regularly and a nice overbust to fit my Victorian dress better.
Of course I'll make some in progress pics of that :)

Friday, August 21, 2009

Stays (boning finished!)

I finally finished measuring, cutting, filing and dipping all the bones :)
It took a long time, I know.

The spring steel was filed with a dremel tool and dipped with white nail polish.
Hm I should buy myself some plastidip some time.

And let's not forget the busk!
The busk was cut and carved out of a thick plate of plastic (thanks again, dad!!!)
Does the job very well and ofcourse it fits perfectly!

The boned stays with the white plastic busk on top

Now on to making my own bias tape!

Friday, August 14, 2009

Stays (boning)

The boning is starting to work on my nerves!
It's taking forever and I don't seem to have enough boning.
I have some in another size, fortunately the difference is very small.

Well, the boning is mixed up now anyway, so I'm using both :)

The tabs and back are now boned, so now on to the front!

Monday, August 10, 2009

Stays (basting and boning channels)

Last week I sewed together all three layers.
First the dupioni and coutil layers were basted at the edge to prevent shifting and after that, the layer was sewn to the cotton lining.


All layers sewn together

I was afraid when stitching the boning channels, the layers would shift, so I basted them again, spread over the fabric.
I now have sewn all the boning channels.


Lots of straight stitching: all boning channels finished!

So now the boning, binding and eyelets are left!